Idiots Conclave Ep 2 San Xavier del Bac and Saguaro NP

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jgh
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Idiots Conclave Ep 2 San Xavier del Bac and Saguaro NP

Post by jgh »

Idiots Conclave Ep. 2 San Xavier del Bac and Saguaro National Park

The Idiots had three sets of guests back to back in April, so this episode about another day excursion with Idiot Daughter the Eldest never got published – until now. The Idiots enjoyed her visit so much, they just want to share a few more memories.

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San Xavier del Bac is one of the “Father Kino” missions, located on what is now the Tohono O’Odham reservation. A Jesuit missionary seeking to bring Christianity and European technology to the Native peoples, Father Kino worked his way north from Mexico City, mapping locations one day’s ride apart for a string of missions. Like pearls on a string, the missions would provide shelter and protection for travelers. Years later, many of Kino's missions were built along his route.

The ruins of the mission just to the south at Tumacacori is a National Historic Site, but San
Xavier was saved and is widely considered to be the best preserved example of “Colonial Barouque” architecture in the US. The “White Dove of the Desert” can be seen glowing in the valley from many miles in all directions.

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Because it was a remote mission church, things that would be gold leaf and marble and granite in Spain or Mexico City are simulated by gilt and faux paint patterns.


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When the Idiots were children, they learned of the Papago Indians in the Tuscon area that made beautiful baskets… and of Ira Hayes from the Pima tribe just to the north, one of the Marines who raised the flag on Iwo Jima and returned to the US to treatment and a death not fitting for an American hero. As so often happened, the local tribes received names from their conquerors that were not what they called themselves. The O’odham peoples have reclaimed their original name and their tribal symbol “The Man in the Maze” is displayed proudly in many places on the reservation, including the main altar cloth.


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Previous attempts at restoration often did more damage than good. Mixing modern materials like concrete with the adobe of the past created stresses that were destroying the mission buildings. Today efforts focus on using traditional materials and painstaking attention to details. Along with major reconstruction projects, there is a couple hired to spend months each year restoring the details and visitors can watch them work.


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The statue of a dead St. Francis on a side altar illustrates the Hispanic tradition of veneration and “milagros.” The devout approach Francis and gently place their hand under his head and raise him up while saying prayers of intercession, asking the saint to act as a go-between to seek God’s support. Sometimes the requests are as simple as “please let my children grow up healthy and happy. Sometimes the requests are for miracles – curing of health problems, financial problems, and so on.

Charms of various forms are pinned to Francis shroud praying for healing or expressing thanks for the Saint’s help in the past. The shapes sometimes indicate what miracle was received or requested… eyes, arms, and so on. Today, the metal milagro charms have been joined by photographs. Religion in Hispanic tradition is very personal and the saints are treated as extended family members. The Idiots will never forget a gentleman in the simple church in Santiago Atitlan in Guatemala standing in front of a Santo (statue) berating the saint who had clearly not come through for the fellow!



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Nearby, a cemetery illustrates the common local practice of colorful decoration of graves.


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Saguaro National Park consists of two large parcels of land on opposite sides of Tucson. It was established to protect the magnificent saguaros in their natural environment. People love saguaros… and sometimes they love them to death. The plants are poached and transplanted. The wood skeletons of these cacti are prized for home and garden décor. As the vast “forests” of saguaro were encroached upon by human development, this park was created as a refuge.


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From the park one sees a startling sight – large man-made ponds of open water… in the desert! The story behind these ponds is a kind of litmus test for people’s politics and how they view environmental issues. To some, this water project represents sound financial thinking. To others it represents the use of technology to degrade the environment for selfish and short-sighted goals.

When the Parker Dam was built on the Colorado River, creating Lake Havasu, both Phoenix and Tucson negotiated large water allotments from the project . As California’s population developed and droughts affected them, the State fought in court for larger water allotments, basing their arguments on need and on the fact that Arizona didn’t need nearly as much water as the terms of the agreement guaranteed them. The courts ruled that in spite of California’s dire needs, Phoenix and Tucson had the right to the negotiated amount of water, whether they could use it or not.

At this point one might think that Arizona and California could have negotiated some kind of compromise. A more international thinker might even suggest that instead of diverting all of the water from the Colorado River to use in the United States, one might consider letting some of it flow to the traditional areas in Mexico that used to get water before the US built the series of dams that effectively take all of the Colorado River water before it reaches Mexico.

But a businessman with his eye on the bottom line might well say – “I don’t need that water… but it is mine… and I’m going to keep it!”

And that is the position Phoenix and Tucson took on the issue. So… instead of leaving the water in Lake Havasu and allowing it to move down river, the Central Arizona Project was constructed. The second most expensive aqueduct project ever in the US created a 336 mile long system of pipes, pumps, and miles of open canal running through the desert. Water is pumped over mountains and runs slowly across the desert. Much of the water ends up in the desert west of Tucson in huge 6’ deep ponds that allow some of the water to percolate down through the soil to the aquifer. How much is lost to evaporation as the water flows in an open ditch for hundreds of miles? How much evaporates from the pools as they stand day after day in the desert sun? Estimates vary from “a lot” to “a shitload.”

Ask Tucson and Phoenix officials about this and the only answer is – “it’s our water and we can do whatever we want with it!”

Looking out over the desert at these ponds, the Idiots are reminded of the New Testament story of Jesus returning to Jerusalem for his last time. Both Matthew and Luke report that Jesus looked out over the selfish and foolish city below and wept.


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On a happier note – the desert blooms in the spring. During this particular part of April, the tall ocotillo are covered in orange-red blooms. More close-up and personal, the prickly pear blossoms delight the eye with their waxy yellow and yellow-and-orange petals – and challenge allergy sufferers with explosive clouds of pollen.


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Some of the barrel cacti bloom in ridiculously intense shades of pink to red-purple.


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On this particular visit, the cholla cactus took “best of show.” Blooming on multiple variations of the plant and in a wide range of colors, the cholla bordered the scenic drive through the park.


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Since they were visiting Saguaro National Park, the Idiots wanted to show Idiot Daughter the Eldest the saguaro in bloom. Unfortunately, the park rangers informed them the saguaro were not yet ready to bloom. That did not stop Idiot She from spotting a couple of “over-achievers.” The white saguaro blooms give rise to fruit that is an integral part of the food and traditions of the O’odham peoples. A fitting end to a lovely Idiots’ Conclave.


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kHT
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Re: Idiots Conclave Ep 2 San Xavier del Bac and Saguaro N

Post by kHT »

Thank you for sharing this adventure, it's has to be one of my favorite ones. Love cactus!! :D
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Re: Idiots Conclave Ep 2 San Xavier del Bac and Saguaro N

Post by Tigger »

Thanks, Jim (and Sheila). I didn't know the chollo bloom in such a range of colors. We keep a few cacti in our bathroom window, and they bloom reliably around Easter. One little bun-sized guy had 7 blooms at once one day.

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Re: Idiots Conclave Ep 2 San Xavier del Bac and Saguaro N

Post by thy »

Lovely cacti flowers :-)
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