Kicked out!

[Dusty]

My Max, a 1 year old black lab, was kicked out of dog training class! Now what the heck am I going to do????? He's absolutely out of control and I blame everyone in this house! Why them and not me? I haven't been home much the past 6 months! The last time I left for Mom's, I had Max not jumping on folks.. most of the time. While I was gone.. someone (Ty) had this grand idea to have Max give him hugs. Basically it's a nice jump.. but is a hug. I don't want hugs nor does everyone who walks through the door. Although most do. Ty's friends think it's cool. So they all want hugs. Trust me it's not cool. Gramma won't want hugs when she comes over.. which thankfully isn't often... and again.. I don't want hugs... and I deal with him the most. Now he gets pleanty of hugs from me but he has to be on 4 legs to get them. I am losing this battle.. I seem to be the only non hugger that lives here.

Sit.. and down.. oh yeah he's got that down.. so long as there is a cookie involed. You don't even have to tell him to sit.. he see's a cookie and his butt is on the ground faster than lightening! If not, you can forget it!
We've about mastered rollover.. but again.. there's gotta be a cookie involved.

Did I mention he's a mater jumper? Oh yeah he can hike over a 5 foot fence. He jumps up.. climbs a lil.. hangs there until he gets his balance... up and over and gone! Of course he come right back when he hears me holler "cookies!!" He really likes cookies. He doesn't seem to be able to jump back in the fence. So.. I was fed up.. and I think I have that lil problem solved after putting up some hot wire. I really didn't want to resort to that but he left me no choice. The first time he hit it Sat, I was having anxiety. "Max get off there!" He did the electric slide down. It was kind of scarry for me.. He thinks it's shocking! The second time he went to hit it.. I was watching from the house.. Ash ran after him and blocked his path to the fence. It was cute watching Ash trying to tell Max he was going to regret it... and keep him from atempting it. Needless to say, Max isn't trying to escape anymore. So it worked.

Did I mention he was a good climber? He seems to think he is a lap dog. Trust me... he's not. But that does not stop him from forcing his way up.. no matter where you are sitting. He's mastered getting on my lap in 2 seconds flat while I am sitting here typing. That includes bed.. when there's no spot on the bed for him.. he makes one.. on my lap! It's always me too. Speaking of bed... Poor Ash, when he wants to come up to bed, I literally have to hold Max so Ash can climb the stairs otherwise he barrels down and knocks Ash off the stairs. Ash is so patient. But he'll stand at the bottom for a few minutes to make sure I have a good hold on Max. Then it's the mad dash between 2 dogs and me to get our spots on the bed!
I think, he thinks he is human. This is verified when I am working in the kitchen. I often turn around to find him sitting on a chair at the table. Just watching me.. hanging out. He likes chairs. I keep one at the south windows for him now.. it keeps him occupied and out of my lap! He watches the birds, the barn and the bunnies. Although the bunnies are a lil problem because he wants to chase them so he goes into bark mode. Speaking of barking... he barks really really loud. Sounds like a 500 pound dog. Thankfully, he doesn't bark 24/7.. or else I'd lose my mind.

Walk? More like drag Mommy. Choke chain does nothing! He is much stronger than I am. I have no control. Oh I can get him to walk nicely... if I have 700 cookies for the walk... and then he spends most of it sitting... again the butt on the ground faster than lightening.

Whiner.. oh yeah he's a whiner. Cry baby.. when he doesn't get his way. Starved for attention.. he seems to think so even though he demands and gets most of mine... regardless what I am trying to do. If I have my attention on something other than him, it's maul Mommie time. He's never more than 1/2 step beside or behindme.. which can make things difficult when I'm cooking. I cook like a maniac and am going from counter to stove to fridge to cabintes in seconds. Well.. I use to.. I've had to slow down so as to not trip or step on Max.

Bubba's (stuffed toys).. he annilates(sp?) them! The only ones that stand a change are Kongs and Kong Wubba's.. and even the Wubba's he tears the tails off.... Kongs eventually bite the dust but usually last a few months. The rope toys have also proven to be un Maxable.

I have watched every single episode of The Dog Whisperer.. it sure hasn't helped me as much as I hoped. So.. I went to dog training class...that sure didn't last long.. not even the whole 1st class. Max isn't welcome there. He distracts the other dogs. Yeah no sheet. If I had a good dog.. I wouldn't be in dog class. So now... I think I am up the creek without a paddle. I am going to see if I can find a private trainer.. a real trainer in my opinion... Cuz if you're a good trainer, you wouldn't be kicking the worst case from class. Prove yourself sweetheart. Which is pretty much what I told the gal.. although I was nice about it. I said.. if you are any kind of a good dog trainer, you would be able to conquer Max... or at least try. You won't even try which tells me a lot. All she said was sorry.
Too bad Ceasar is on the opposite end of the country. I need him!

And yes, I know I have a bad dog.. but I love him to pieces and he's my bad dog. I'm just frustrated and running out of options. Folks have told me to get a shock collar and I just can't do it. I don't like the hot fence I sure as heck am not going to send him a shock from my hands. I don't want a bad dog.. I'm too old for this. But I just might be stuck with the Max Factor.

[LucyGoose]

I don't have time right now, because I am going to work.....But.....read this for a starter....I say.....forget Ceasar .......JMO........I do not want to get slamed for saying that!! Also.....let me try to get Bro/OED to pop in....he has helped me big time......Good Luck!!

Nothing in Life is Free
Undesirable behavior can be caused by many things, including undetected illness. No behavior modification program should begin without first taking the dog to a veterinarian for a complete physical examination. While you're there, give your vet a printed copy of this page and ask if it would be an appropriate technique for you to try. The NILIF program is an accepted standard in dog training/behavior but it is not, and is not intended to be, a substitute for an in-person, professional evaluation of your dog's behavior. This technique is intended for dogs in good health and of sound mind and stable temperament.

The NILIF program is remarkable because it's effective for such a wide variety of problems. A shy, timid dog becomes more relaxed knowing that he has nothing to worry about, his owner is in charge of all things. A dog that's pushing too hard to become "top dog" learns that the position is not available and that his life is far more enjoyable without the title.

It is equally successful with dogs that fall anywhere between those two extremes. The program is not difficult to put into effect and it's not time consuming if the dog already knows a few basic obedience commands. I've never seen this technique fail to bring about a positive change in behavior, however, the change can be more profound in some dogs than others. Most owners use this program in conjunction with other behavior modification techniques such as coping with fear or treatment for aggression. It is a perfectly suitable technique for the dog with no major behavior problems that just needs some fine tuning.

ATTENTION ON DEMAND
The program begins by eliminating attention on demand. When your dog comes to you and nudges your hand, saying "pet me! pet me!" ignore him. Don't tell him "no", don't push him away. Simply pretend you don't notice him. This has worked for him before, so don't be surprised if he tries harder to get your attention. When he figures out that this no longer works, he'll stop. In a pack situation, the top ranking dogs can demand attention from the lower ranking ones, not the other way around. When you give your dog attention on demand you're telling him that he has more status in the pack than you do. Timid dogs become stressed by having this power and may become clingy. They're never sure when you'll be in charge so they can't relax. What if something scary happens, like a stranger coming in the house? Who will handle that? The timid dog that is demanding of attention can be on edge a lot of the time because he has more responsibility than he can handle.

Some dogs see their ability to demand attention as confirmation that they are the "alpha", then become difficult to handle when told to "sit" or "down" or some other demand is placed on them. It is not their leadership status that stresses them out, it's the lack of consistency. They may or may not actually be alpha material, but having no one in the pack that is clearly the leader is a bigger problem than having the dog assume that role full time. Dogs are happiest when the pack order is stable. Tension is created by a constant fluctuation of pack leadership.

EXTINCTION BURSTS
Your dog already knows that he can demand your attention and he knows what works to get that to happen. As of today, it no longer works, but he doesn't know that yet. We all try harder at something we know works when it stops working. If I gave you a twenty dollar bill every time you clapped your hands together, you'd clap a lot. But, if I suddenly stopped handing you money, even though you were still clapping, you'd clap more and clap louder. You might even get closer to me to make sure I was noticing that you were clapping. You might even shout at me "Hey! I'm clapping like crazy over here, where's the money?". If I didn't respond at all, in any way, you'd stop. It wasn't working anymore. That last try -- that loud, frequent clapping is an extinction burst. If, however, during that extinction burst, I gave you another twenty dollar bill you'd be right back in it. It would take a lot longer to get you to stop clapping because you just learned that if you try hard enough, it will work.

When your dog learns that the behaviors that used to get him your attention don't work any more he's going to try harder and he's going to have an extinction burst. If you give him attention during that time you will have to work that much harder to get him turned around again. Telling him "no" or pushing him away is not the kind of attention he's after, but it's still attention. Completely ignoring him will work faster and better.

YOU HAVE THE POWER
As the human and as his owner you have control of all things that are wonderful in his life. This is the backbone of the NILIF program. You control all of the resources. Playing, attention, food, walks, going in and out of the door, going for a ride in the car, going to the dog park. Anything and everything that your dog wants comes from you. If he's been getting most of these things for free there is no real reason for him to respect your leadership or your ownership of these things. Again, a timid dog is going to be stressed by this situation, a pushy dog is going to be difficult to handle. Both of them would prefer to have you in charge.

To implement the NILIF program you simply have to have your dog earn his use of your resources. He's hungry? No problem, he simply has to sit before his bowl is put down. He wants to play fetch? Great! He has to "down" before you throw the ball. Want to go for a walk or a ride? He has to sit to get his lead snapped on and has to sit while the front door is opened. He has to sit and wait while the car door is opened and listen for the word (I use "OK") that means "get into the car". When you return he has to wait for the word that means "get out of the car" even if the door is wide open. Don't be too hard on him. He's already learned that he can make all of these decisions on his own. He has a strong history of being in control of when he gets these resources. Enforce the new rules, but keep in mind that he's only doing what he's been taught to do and he's going to need some time to get the hang of it all.

You're going to have to pay attention to things that you probably haven't noticed before. If you feed your dog from your plate do you just toss him a green bean? No more. He has to earn it. You don't have to use standard obedience commands, any kind of action will do. If your dog knows "shake" or "spin around" or "speak" use those commands. Does your dog sleep on your bed? Teach him that he has to wait for you to say "OK" to get on the bed and he has to get down when you say "off". Teach him to go to his bed, or other designated spot, on command. When he goes to his spot and lays down tell him "stay" and then release him with a treat reward. Having a particular spot where he stays is very helpful for when you have guests or otherwise need him out of the way for a while. It also teaches him that free run of the house is a resource that you control. There are probably many things that your dog sees as valuable resources that I haven't mentioned here.

The NILIF program should not be a long, drawn out process. All you need to do is enforce a simple command before allowing him access to what he wants. Dinner, for example, should be a two or three second encounter that consists of nothing more than saying "sit", then "good dog!", then putting the bowl down and walking away.

ATTENTION AND PLAY
Now that your dog is no longer calling the shots you will have to make an extra effort to provide him with attention and play time. Call him to you, have him "sit" and then lavish him with as much attention as you want. Have him go get his favorite toy and play as long as you both have the energy. The difference is that now you will be the one initiating the attention and beginning the play time. He's going to depend on you now, a lot more than before, to see that he gets what he needs. What he needs most is quality time with you. This would be a good time to enroll in a group obedience class. If his basic obedience is top notch, see about joining an agility class or fly ball team.

NILIF DOES *NOT* MEAN THAT YOU HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF ATTENTION YOU GIVE TO YOUR DOG. The NILIF concept speaks to who initiates the attention (you!), not the amount of attention. Go ahead and call your dog to you 100 times a day for hugs and kisses!! You can demand his attention, he can no longer demand yours!

Within a day or two your dog will see you in a whole new light and will be eager to learn more. Use this time to teach new things, such as 'roll over' or learn the specific names of different toys.

If you have a shy dog, you'll see a more relaxed dog. There is no longer any reason to worry about much of anything. He now has complete faith in you as his protector and guide. If you have a pushy dog he'll be glad that the fight for leadership is over and his new role is that of devoted and adored pet.

©1999 Deb McKean

[LucyGoose]

One more......Might help......

Teaching Your Dog To Greet People Coming Into Your Home Politely

Especially for those of us with more than one dog, our visitors can sometimes be overwhelmed! It’s very easy to teach your dog to be polite when people come into your house.

You will need accomplices because it is impossible to teach manners in real life, you need to set the dog up to be successful. Your accomplice can be a family member to start, although you will eventually need around 10 accomplices because dogs don’t generalize behaviors well and it takes about 10 people before the dog generalizes the behavior.

Note: if you have more than 1 dog, you have to teach each dog individually. When each dog has a solid behavior, then pair 2 dogs and try it. Sometimes they will get each other aroused, so be patient. If this happens, work with them individually for a little longer.

* The accomplice goes outside and rings the doorbell or knocks and continues to ring the doorbell/knock while your dog jumps around, barks, etc. while you are a tree and remember trees don’t talk. (This is the annoying part (grin)).

* The instant your dog settles, the accomplice stops ringing/knocking. You call the dog, cue for a sit and heavily reinforce – 10-20 small, easily swallowed treats, fed one at a time. Note: it never is useful to be stingy with food – make it really worth it for your dog to calm down and it will happen faster.

* Repeat, repeat, repeat in 5-10 minute sessions until your dog is automatically running to you the second the accomplice starts ringing/knocking.

* Once the dog is running to you automatically, now it’s time for the accomplice to enter.

* The dog should be sitting by you. The accomplice turns the doorknob. If the dog gets up, start over. Repeat, repeat, repeat until the dog is sitting while the accomplice turns the doorknob.
* Baby step from turning the doorknob to opening the door 1”, 2”, 4” etc. until the dog remains sitting while the accomplice enters the house.

This sounds long and complicated but once your dogs understand the ‘game’, it goes very quickly. You want to proceed in small steps so that your dog can be successful at each step. If you ask for too much at once, your dog will fail. This is one of the 3 major reasons people can’t train their dogs – they ask for too much at one time. Human babies do not go from a crawl to a run. They stand up first, then take a step, often holding on to something, etc. Give your dog the time to learn in the same small steps.

* Repeat with every family member and friend you can wheedle into helping.

* Patience, consistency, teaching in steps and letting the dog figure out what the right behavior is are the keys to success!

You can also cue your dog to go to a specific place, her bed, his crate or anywhere you want. If you choose to use a place, then instead of calling the dog to you, toss a wad of treats on the place/in the crate.

Your dog will run to her place as soon as she hears someone at the door after lots of practice.


Copyright 2007 Virginia Wind

[Kas]

Carole Leah Benjamin has a couple of awesome training books as well. "Mother Knows Best" and one that was about adolescent dogs and their teenage behavior. Very helpful as well as funny and easy to read.

Kas

[Spider]

Just about every lab and great dane owner who comes to the clinic eventually resort to the gentile leader (face "halter") to lead their overly rambunctious dogs. It seems to be the only thing that works. Any other means (choke, spike, discapline) falls on deaf ears. Sometimes I wonder how the h*** labs are used to lead the blind?? I've met ONE that was managable. They don't grow out of it either. I feel for you, but you are describing a lab.

[govgirl75]

The lady I got my first two Chihuahuas from is a dog trainer and so is her husband. They also own a doggy daycare and run a doggy bootcamp for dogs who have undesirable behaviours. They pretty much use the methods Lucygoose has described to you and they have a lot of success with them. They have 6 dogs of their own, everything from a Chihuahua to Affenpinschers to a Boxer. They are all beautifully behaved and are loving pets. I think you will have good success if you work with old Max using Lucy's methods. Good luck.
Gloria

[LucyGoose]

Bro should be checking in for ya Dusty......

Have you trained the kids yet??..

[Old earth dog]

Hey Dusty,
A certain LG we know e-mailed me about dropping in here. Long time no see! I miss you folks!
Now I'm cgoonna get just a bit mean.
You don't have a bad dog. Your dog has a bad leader!
Now to the issues;
"So long as there is a cookie involved"
Your bribing him, not training him! Training is all about timingT There is a huge difference between bribing, lureing and rewarding the dog for behaviours.
to much to go into but the info Kathleen posted is very good. Learn marker training! Lots of great books and DVDs on it.
"lap Dog"
You need to break the cycle before he gets on your lap.
Example;
In the wild a wolf preys on sheep. Your dog jumps on your lap. Simple huh!
The wolf SEES the sheep, STALKS the sheep, CHASES the sheep, CATCHES the sheep, EATS the sheep. That's a whole string of behaviours. The sheep guarding dog does nothing more then bark and that breaks the string of behaviours. If the dog waits till the wold is chasing, catching, killing or eating the sheep then the dog's response has to go up in quantum leaps to get a response.
You need to correct the dog when he first starts THINKING about jumping on you lap. Often time just stand up (no mor lap) and a simple, stern NO will do it. Wait till the dog is on your lap and you've "let the wolf catch the sheep". Make sense? Break the chain of behaviours!!! Be consistant!!! Don't let it be a big joke sometimes and try and be stern another time! The dog will have no clue what's correct. That's what leadership is about.
Without leadership strong dogs become stronger. Weak dog become nerotic!
"Dog wisperer"
Nothing wrong with what CM does but it's NOT dog training. He's teaching leadership skills to the owners. You haved to completely understand the whole process. Most folks would cringe if they knew what sometimes happens off camera. CM would love to tell the whole story but his producers wont let him.
He HAS shown the correct way to use the e-collar and the pinch collar but not enough. JMHO!
Bottom line with CM. I like most of what he does. Some of his methods can sound/look very harsh if the producers allowed it but he's often successful with these methods. The alternative would often be putting the dog to sleep. "leadership" I'm in disagreement with CM on one thing in particular I think dog parks suck! Dogs are pack animals and they need to find out who is top dog and who isn't. Just to many chances for dog fights and nobody there that has a clue about preventing or stopping them. Not to mention all the viruses, etc you can find there. They are a dangerous place!!!!!!!
"Trainers"
There is NO real standard to show that a "dog trainer" really knows what theyre doing. The Petsamrt/Petco/ etc typ trainers don't have to do anything but pass a written test to become "trainers" at most of these places. You may get an excellent trainer but the odds are against it.
Ask for refferences. Ask if the trainer has titled any dogs and to what level. Use your gut instinct (you did that when you commented about your trainer..and you were right)!
Lots of good books, DVDs, etc out there. Her's a good place for lots of info. http://leerburg.com/
Hope I helped just a little bit. Without seeing the dog and knowing what they and their owner is capable of doing it's really hard to properly tell someone over the web how to do things correctly.

OED Bob

[Old earth dog]

I need to add that NO dog with dominant behaviours should be allowed to get on your bed!!!
The dominant wolf in the pack has the best (usually highest) place to sleep.
In the business world the "boss" often has his chair set up higher then any other in the room. Bigger desk also. The "boss" also sits at the best place to "view" his pack (at the head of the conference table) Think that's an accident? Not on your life!

[Chris_W]

Some great advice, and I'll I can really add is that your dog doesn't sound like a bad dog, just one that needs to be trained and not do the training

My sister trains dogs and actually gets troubled dogs from around the country, trains them and then returns them. She can definitely be harsh with them, but we are talking about dogs that are often mean, aggressive, and otherwise would be put to sleep. One thing she has shared with me about the shock collar is that you can never let the dog know where the shock is coming from. If you point the shocker at the dog they know you are doing it, and they will never obey you and will likely become much more aggressive towards you. She would watch the dog from a distance and when it would think about doing something wrong she would turn away so she wasn't looking at the dog and then shock it with the controller in her pocket. There is obviously a lot more to it, but that's one thing she stressed to me.

Good luck breaking those bad habits!

[caliloo]

Hey Dusty,
A certain LG we know e-mailed me about dropping in here. Long time no see! I miss you folks!
Now I'm cgoonna get just a bit mean.
You don't have a bad dog. Your dog has a bad leader!
Now to the issues;
"So long as there is a cookie involved"
Your bribing him, not training him! Training is all about timingT There is a huge difference between bribing, lureing and rewarding the dog for behaviours.
to much to go into but the info Kathleen posted is very good. Learn marker training! Lots of great books and DVDs on it.
"lap Dog"
You need to break the cycle before he gets on your lap.
Example;
In the wild a wolf preys on sheep. Your dog jumps on your lap. Simple huh!
The wolf SEES the sheep, STALKS the sheep, CHASES the sheep, CATCHES the sheep, EATS the sheep. That's a whole string of behaviours. The sheep guarding dog does nothing more then bark and that breaks the string of behaviours. If the dog waits till the wold is chasing, catching, killing or eating the sheep then the dog's response has to go up in quantum leaps to get a response.
You need to correct the dog when he first starts THINKING about jumping on you lap. Often time just stand up (no mor lap) and a simple, stern NO will do it. Wait till the dog is on your lap and you've "let the wolf catch the sheep". Make sense? Break the chain of behaviours!!! Be consistant!!! Don't let it be a big joke sometimes and try and be stern another time! The dog will have no clue what's correct. That's what leadership is about.
Without leadership strong dogs become stronger. Weak dog become nerotic!
"Dog wisperer"
Nothing wrong with what CM does but it's NOT dog training. He's teaching leadership skills to the owners. You haved to completely understand the whole process. Most folks would cringe if they knew what sometimes happens off camera. CM would love to tell the whole story but his producers wont let him.
He HAS shown the correct way to use the e-collar and the pinch collar but not enough. JMHO!
Bottom line with CM. I like most of what he does. Some of his methods can sound/look very harsh if the producers allowed it but he's often successful with these methods. The alternative would often be putting the dog to sleep. "leadership" I'm in disagreement with CM on one thing in particular I think dog parks suck! Dogs are pack animals and they need to find out who is top dog and who isn't. Just to many chances for dog fights and nobody there that has a clue about preventing or stopping them. Not to mention all the viruses, etc you can find there. They are a dangerous place!!!!!!!
"Trainers"
There is NO real standard to show that a "dog trainer" really knows what theyre doing. The Petsamrt/Petco/ etc typ trainers don't have to do anything but pass a written test to become "trainers" at most of these places. You may get an excellent trainer but the odds are against it.
Ask for refferences. Ask if the trainer has titled any dogs and to what level. Use your gut instinct (you did that when you commented about your trainer..and you were right)!
Lots of good books, DVDs, etc out there. Her's a good place for lots of info. http://leerburg.com/
Hope I helped just a little bit. Without seeing the dog and knowing what they and their owner is capable of doing it's really hard to properly tell someone over the web how to do things correctly.

OED Bob

Awesome advice - as always. I completely agree that the people are the ones that need to be taught leadership skills and that is the repeated theme with any of the CM shows. As far as what goes on "off camera", sometimes extreme cases need extreme fixes.

And good to see you back!

Alexa

[Dusty]

Thanks everyone. OED.. good to see you! You've been missed!
I'm trying.. ignoring has proven to be difficult... okay more like painful. The more I ignore, the more I get mauled... the bruises show that! OED, I did start standing up, taking the lap away.. I've become quite good at doing most things, like typing this standing! Bed is the least of the trouble.. we all have our designated spots.. but we all race to them! Ash sleeps up closest to me and Max sleeps at my feet. Both have to touch me.. I call it my 2 dog night. Max usually sleeps with his head on my legs for a pillow. I still can't believe my hubby brought home a black lab.. of all dogs.
I don't think the greeting people when they knock will work as folks don't knock in my house. My door is always open 24/7 for whomever may choose to enter. We don't even have keys to it. Now before you all start lecturing me on the hazzards of that, I live far off the road without many neighbors. You can't even tell there's a house here at night. Over 20 years with no trouble.
I don't know how much firmer I can be... I am off to leerburg to get me some aid. Thanks OED.
I'll keep you all posted on how I am doing. Wish me luck cuz I sure do need it. Fast!

[LucyGoose]

Bed is the least of the trouble.. we all have our designated spots.. but we all race to them! Ash sleeps up closest to me and Max sleeps at my feet. Both have to touch me.. I call it my 2 dog night. Max usually sleeps with his head on my legs for a pillow!

What did OED say about the bed?

Then you said.....
I literally have to hold Max so Ash can climb the stairs otherwise he barrels down and knocks Ash off the stairs. Ash is so patient. But he'll stand at the bottom for a few minutes to make sure I have a good hold on Max. Then it's the mad dash between 2 dogs and me to get our spots on the bed!

I would let the old dog do what he is used to, I guess, but make that pup stay off.....get a squirt gun. Squirt him and say OFF......Willie was the same......it did not take long to teach him he is not allowed on the bed AT ALL.....the cat is.....he is old, and always comes to bed when we go to bed....so my young, little stud Willie goes right to his little bed on the floor......no questions..... ....It kinda cute....I called Bro about this same thing when Willie was being all alpha all of a sudden....He used to lay on the bed durning the day...no problem.....then he just started to growl when I entered the room.....it took a few days.....but he learned. I never had a small dog, so I thought they could be on the bed....I know some people with large dogs let them sleep with them.....but your haveing a alph thing going on, so I would NOT let him.....

I have the DVD on clicker training from Leeburg.....I love clickers.....

Good Luck!!

Thanks my favorite big Bro!!!! ..

[caliloo]

Can you say "crate training" in the bedroom?

Alexa

[Dusty]

then he just started to growl when I entered the room.....

Oh my Dogs good and bad have never growled at me! So.. I must be one step ahead!

[Dusty]

Oh and Alexa.. Yeah we have crates.. been there done that.. Max dimolishes them.! No I am not kidding. I think he just hulks up his body and makes himself a doggie incredible hulk.. because the way they break apart is hulkish!

[LucyGoose]

Good Luck!

[Spider]

Makes me picture him in a gorilla crate, just as a challenge.

[Dusty]

Thanks Goosey! I need all the luck I can get!
Spidey... Gorilla cage... you might be on to something there....

[Dusty]

Well, I'm impressed! I didn't let Max on the bed last night. It took some persistance but I didn't give in. Woke up this morning, fully expecting that he'd jump up during the night.. he did not!

I am sill at the picture I have in my head of cute lil innocent Willie growling!