Maui is a relatively small island… 48 x 26 miles… so it's initially a bit surprising how little of the island is accessible. In addition to the roads along the coastline, there are really only two ways to enter the interior – the road up Haleakala volcano on the main part of the island, and a short drive up Iao Valley on the western island. A glance at a map explains the situation… Maui is basically two steep volcanic islands that joined together… and those steep slopes do not lend themselves to human habitation.
The drive into Iao Valley ends at a state park that preserves an area of serene beauty.
As with so many locations in Hawaii, the peaceful beauty of today disguises a shockingly brutal history. Prior to European contact, it was difficult for any king or chief to conquer large parts of the islands. The rough, rocky, uneven terrain and reliance on relatively primitive weapons made it possible for smaller forces to defend against much larger invading forces. On Maui, the natives knew that, if pressed, they could retreat into the steep fastness of Iao Valley where large scale combat became largely impossible.
But by 1790, with British muskets and cannon, King Kamehameha I of the Big Island dominated most of his home island and was ready to start his invasion of the rest of the archipelago. He brought a force of 1200 seasoned warriors to Maui at a time he knew the primary chief Kahekili had gone to O’ahu. A roughly equally-sized force led by Kahekili’s son retreated to the mouth of Iao Valley and after two days of fighting, no one had gained superiority.
At that point, a game-changer intervened. Kamehameha was reinforced by two British “advisors” operating two large cannons. The battle is remembered as one of the most bitter in all of Hawaiian history. The cannons wreaked havoc on the Maui forces. Bodies clogged the narrow stream resulting in the name “The Battle of the Dammed Waters.” Though not decisive, this victory was the precursor of Kamehameha’s eventual conquest of Maui in 1793 and the establishment of the Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810.
Today, visitors walk peaceful paths and view Iao Needle, which towers over the valley.
Photographers… and what they are shooting…
Idiot She collects baskets. More importantly, She collects experiences with artists around the world. Hawaii was no exception. A local artisan was selling her baskets woven from banana leaves by the side of the trail. At first the exchange was all about commerce. This lady is clearly used to brief casual sales encounters with busy tourists. Idiot She stopped and took the time to make a real human contact with the basket maker. Somehow she made it clear that she was not on her way somewhere else – she was totally “there.”
They talked of nature and art and beauty and the spirit of the Islands. Eventually, the two of them were sitting together under the weaver’s umbrella and She was getting a hands-on lesson. In human communication, smiles have many meanings. In this case, the smiles exchanged as the two women parted demonstrated that Idiot She had once more made authentic human-to-human contact.
A few Maui odds and ends…
It’s not unusual to see chickens wandering around in Hawaii… but this mother and chick greeted the Idiot group – at the airport rental car office?!
About SPAM… The Idiots have written about SPAM in previous episodes... and in some detail about their pilgrimage to The SPAM Museum in Austin, Minnesota. So... to be brief...
This canned meat product has a unique status in the world. Universally recognized, revered, reviled… object of nostalgia and ridicule… SPAM was invented in 1937 during The Great Depression as a way to use parts of the hog that might have otherwise gone to waste. It became famous (and infamous) around the planet during World War II as the unusually-shaped tins brought a form of preserved meat to soldiers and populations suffering long deprivations. Monte Python made a humorous movie title out of it. Computer geeks turned it into a term of derision for unwanted electronic communication.
SPAM is not exactly “health food.” American affection for the product has fallen off over the years – except in Hawaii. Humorously called “Hawaiian Steak”, it is served both raw and cooked in many forms. It is even available at Hawaiian McDonalds and Burger Kings.
Even allowing for regional differences in taste, though… in what alternate universe did someone decide that THIS would be a good idea?!
Lahaina, on the west coast of Maui, was a major whaling port and is now the hub of tourism on the island. Approaching the courthouse, tourists find what appears to be a large city park shaded by many trees. Closer examination results in the surprising discovery that there is, in fact, only one tree – one of the largest banyan trees in the US. Imported from India in 1873, with 11 major trunks, a 60’ tall canopy, and dangling vines, this single tree covers two-thirds of an acre. It is difficult to get a good photograph – it is just too big!
From immense to minute… It is easy to be swept away by the dazzling vistas of Hawaii, but it is important to keep one’s eyes open to the details… miniature landscapes and intricate designs abound.
Idiots Hana Mana describes so many highlights that readers may be deceived into thinking the Idiots abandoned their “start-out-casual-and-then-slow-down” travel style in Hawaii. Though they had many great experiences, their most enduring memories of the trip are all about time well spent with well-loved friends.
(Matching t-shirts at Kilauea Volcano. Would you believe these two had matching underwear 50 years ago in high school?!)
Volcanoes and helicopters and tropical sunsets are all very well… but lunch and laughs and Mai Tais are what life is really about.
