The Idiots have been working their way slowly up the East Coast from Key West… Fort Myers, St. Augustine, Savannah, St. Helena, Charleston, the Outer Banks…
The Beast on the High Seas
Perhaps the most isolated spot on the east coast of the United States is a little barrier island in the Outer Banks called Ocracoke. Located between Hatteras to the north and Cedar Island to the south, there is no way to get to Ocracoke except by ferry. It is a 14 mile long thin strip of sand and shrubs surrounded by isolated beaches with one small village.
The ferry from Cedar Island takes over 2 hours to cross the 23 miles of ocean-like Pimlico Sound to Ocracoke. The winds on the Outer Banks seem to never end. The waves on Pimlico were impressive. The Beast had some trepidation about the journey, but with a distinct lack of drama it nestled into its berth. The Idiots sat in the belly of the beast in the breakfast nook playing pinochle and watching for dolphins.
The Idiots love signs that make one think twice… the elevator sign is permanent… and the only handicapped bathroom is up a step and then has this added note…
Ocracoke had a small resident population, primarily to support a small commercial fishing fleet. The combination of ferries and a paved road have given the island new life as a tourist destination. There’s still little to “do”. People bike and use golf carts to explore narrow lanes and long miles of isolated beaches. The stubby lighthouse’ claim to fame is that it is the shortest on the East Coast.
There are stories that the infamous pirate Edward Teach – aka Blackbeard – buried treasure on Ocracoke. The island plays up the Blackbeard connection in naming souvenir shops and taverns.
This portrait makes Blackbeard look angry – or perhaps demented. One story has it that his career of rage and terror all grew out of a simple verbal misunderstanding. Apparently he approached a local vegetable market and inquired the cost of sweet corn. One of the workers whispered “buccaneer” to the salesperson. Blackbeard misunderstood, and was so angry at what he thought was an attempt to overcharge him that he burned the village. The rest is history…
The Idiots don’t generally make much note of military memorials, but they found Fort Ocracoke entertaining. At the beginning of The War of Northern Aggression, Confederate sympathizers built a fort. After only a few months, Union soldiers recaptured Hatteras, the island just to the north. The Confederates partially destroyed Fort Ocracoke and abandoned it. In a rare example of agreement, the Union soldiers completed the destruction. Later even the ruins disappeared under the waters of Pimlico Sound. A fort that was never defended, never used in any military fashion, destroyed by soldiers from both opposing armies, then sunken under the sea… Fort Ocracoke is definitely the Rodney Dangerfield of Civil War sites.
On a more somber note… there is a small cemetery that evokes a piece of history unknown to many Americans. During World War II, German submarines were very active along the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of Mexico. Nowhere was this more evident than along the North Carolina coast. Cape Hatteras earned the nickname “Torpedo Alley.” People on the islands lived in fear of invasion. They were shaken from their beds by the concussions of exploding ships. Over sixty ships were sunk in just that area. Few sailors survived the attacks, and most of the bodies were never recovered.
To prevent public panic, the U-boat predation along the coast was kept classified and newspapers were not allowed to report it. Idiot He’s father was in the Army Air Corps, stationed in Fort Myers. He flew bombing missions seeking German U-boats. He’s parents told of watching torpedoed ships burn in the Gulf.
Four British sailorss washed ashore on Ocracoke in 1942. The local community donated a piece of land that is officially British soil and they cared for the graves until that task was taken over by the US Coast Guard.
Today, though tourism dominates the local economy, the tradition of commercial fishing continues to be an important part of island life. The Idiots feasted on local tuna and shrimp, fresh off the boats.
The Idiots are attracted to the odd and unusual. If something appears to be out of place, it often indicates something special is going on. When they saw an unlikely sign – a big wooden chili pepper advertising a Mexican taco stand – they had to check it out. They discovered that possibly the best dining on Ocracoke takes place al fresco around a simple food truck producing exceptional meals by combining Mexican cooking with fresh local seafood. The Idiots are still talking about the mouth-waterig crab, shrimp, and bacon burrito (with veggies and rice and beans) – one burrito was a full meal for two.
The Idiots visited Ocracoke in the off season. Many businesses were closed. The cold water and blustery weather limited activities. They enjoyed the quiet time. The beach was deserted. The wind was busy renovating… waves of sand sweeping along for miles.
Idiot He’s fascination with miniature landscapes continues. He hopes readers patience has not been exceeded…
Gale force gusts… temperatures in the fifties… waves crashing… sand scouring… only Idiots would be on the beach on a day like that…
